I woke up about midnight and it sounded like there was a riot in the streets. Thank god for the security bars. Sirens were wailing and that damned car alarm was still going off. Blanca told us that our street was not an especially safe street. And she also told us that the citizenry was incredibly angry because the government had not attempted to rescue a soldier whose plane had crashed in the jungle. He was later found dead but it appeared that he had been alive for a few days. I think that’s why I thought there were riots during the night. Instead it apparently was just the usual cacophony of Lima. For breakfast we had guindones (prune) & durazno (peach) yogurt. I think we are incredibly adventurous to buy yogurt in flavors we don’t recognize! Today we have sun instead of the grey fog (called Garua) for which Lima is known. And we have a new driver, Aldo, who turns out to be the best driver in the world! First stop is the market: a huge building with vendors of all kinds. We sample fruit that we have never seen before.
We see several dozen types of potatoes and corn, the staples of the region. We see butchered beef, lamb and guinea pig (!!!!!!). I was afraid I would come across the deceased cousins of my college pet, Shirley. Although all the wares are beautifully displayed this market ain’t like a French market. We have a “taste of Peru” at a restaurant called El Rincon que No Conoces (translated “the corner joint you’ve never heard of”). The man who greets us is very charming and elegant. It’s early so we have the restaurant to ourselves. We have tapas portions of grilled marinated beef heart (surprisingly delicious); a sweet tamale; and causa, a potato tort a stuffed with tuna. To drink we have a purple corn drink called chicha morada. We truly enjoy this little taste of Peru! We walk through Chinatown but it truly is NOTHING. I think Blanca is just wasting time so that we arrive at our lunch destination at the normal lunch hour of 1pm. Lunch is at El Kapallaq–a bright, modern-style seafood restaurant. We are given lessons in making the ubiquitous ceviche.
They use sea bass. Then we have thinly sliced raw white fish in citrus juice. Our main course is a pan fried fish with a brightly tasting tomato sauce. Then last but not least a scrumptious crepe with Pisco brandy and a native cherry sauce. We make a shopping stop at Dedalo and I find a lovely baby alpaca shawl. I’ve been looking for this since Santiago! I thought it was $40 but it was $60 and well worth it. A lady dressed in traditional clothing stops me to show me a handmade belt she has made. I really don’t want a belt but I try to be polite. I am saved by my girth! All of her belts are too small for my round tummy. We take a walk in the Barranco district. It is the nicest area we’ve seen in Lima. It is home to many artists with interesting homes and architecture. We are surprised to see 20 or so vultures roosting on the church roof!!! There’s go to be some kind of bad luck associated with that scene.
5 May 2012
