Today we explore nearby Lucca, birthplace of our brother-in-law, Andrew Guidi. Nadia, our dog sitter arrives bright and early and in one piece after the drive up the mountain. After proper introductions, it’s clear the dogs are very happy to meet her and we can leave them without worries.
It’s with much trepidation that we set off down the mountain road. We actually are not quite sure how to get back to Lucca! But after safely arriving at the bottom of the mountain, Howard is able to get the GPS going and in no time we are at the gates of Lucca.
The town of Lucca is unique in that the original walls of the city are completely intact. Most small towns tear down all or part of the town walls to make way for new streets and buildings. But Lucca has kept her Renaissance ramparts and the length of the top of the walls has been made into a park. (Medieval ramparts are thin and are made to stop arrows. During the renaissance era cannons were used in warfare so the protective walls are very thick creating a wide, 2.2 mile, circular park on top.) For the most part, only locals can drive and park within the walls of the town. But there is ample parking outside the walls and it’s an easy walk into the town.
Nadia has given us a map and suggestions for the sights to see. We find ourselves strolling on an alleyway that turns out to be THE place to be for retail shopping. The modern stores have antique storefronts; many are in art-deco motifs. There are lots of high-end jewelry stores. I try to not window-shop because I may run in with my credit card!
Even though this part of town is quite shaded, it is a hot day and, about 11am, we look for somewhere to sit down for a drink. We find ourselves in Piazza Anfiteatro. The ancient amphitheater is no longer there but the footprint remains surrounded by old, many-storied buildings. A young lady at one of the restaurants has such a welcoming smile that I forget my shyness about this new country and ask if we can sit down. She speaks very good English and makes us feel right at home.
We have been reading police mystery stories by Donna Leon. (Try her if you like mysteries.) Her fictitious police inspector lives and works in Venice. He and his colleague spend a bit of work time in the cafés drinking an Italian drink called a “spritz.” So, of course, that’s what we order even though we have no idea what we will get.
The drinks set in front of us are florescent orange with lots of ice. Now that’s new to us! But it is so refreshing and light–we love it! A spritz is made by first adding a handful of ice to a glass. Then 2 oz. of Aperol, a liqueur made from oranges and “herbs and roots.” It is considered a “bitter” like Campari but it’s hardly a bitter drink. Plus 3 oz. prosecco, an Italian sparkling wine. And lastly a splash of soda water. Both the prosecco and the Aperol are about 10-11% alcohol so the drink is not super alcoholic but it is refreshing! We are hooked and ask for it wherever we have a meal. We tell our server how much we appreciate her kindness and, now fortified, we are off to the next sight.
We are frustrated to not be able to communicate in Italian. We are used to being easily able to ask for things in French, we wish we could do the same in Italian. We do notice that many words are close to the same word in French but you add an extra syllable to the end so that it sounds just like the stereotypic Italian. So “bonjour” becomes “bonjour-no.” (That’s a phonetic spelling.) The next stop has a similar pronunciation. We go to Piazza San Michele. In Italian, the last “e” in “Michele” is pronounced again sounding like the Italian we’ve all heard: Mishell-e.
Piazza San Michele has hosted a market since Roman times. It appears that the primary business industry surrounding the piazza is banking and finance. Next to the church we can see that workers are uncovering ancient ruins below the current street level and it’s on display for everyone to see. The piazza is dominated by the San Michele church, built in 795. The most remarkable thing is the facade with its sculptures and marble inlays of different colors. There are approximately 50 arches with sculptured columns. A toy-like archangel Michael sits atop the church and apparently his wings can be mechanically flapped. The inside is not remarkable but there is a unique terracotta madonna.
One more stop before lunch: the cathedral of San Martino. This church is most notable for the “holy face of St Lucca.” According to legend, a wooden crucifix dating to 742 made its way to Lucca (long, involved story). Believers say that the Christ figure on the crucifix can leave the cross and walk. The figure is quite unique and not at all the attractive face of Jesus that is normally portrayed. In September there is a festival to commemorate the crucifix; the figure is dressed in exotic robes and adorned in gold. The crucifix is housed in an elaborate “temple” in one part of the church. The exterior of the cathedral is in some ways similar to San Michele with arches and different colors of marble but there’s no flapping winged archangel.
Boy, are we hungry and hot. Nadia recommended a traditional restaurant called Da Giulio.
It is also recommended in a short, computer-printed travel guide at the house that was apparently written by a couple who love Italy. So off we go!
The place is run/staffed by VERY nice people–we are coming to believe that all Italians are welcoming, friendly and accommodating. The young man who seats us speaks a good bit of English but the 60-something lady who takes our order (I think the owner) speaks no English. Honestly it was a combination of quick glances at the phrase book, hand gestures and smiles that completed our order.
We start, of course, with a spritz! We share an antipasti plate of local meats, little fried bread pieces, and a bunch more delicious stuff that we neglected to note. My next course is Gorgonzola cheese gnocchi–OMG! I love gnocchi and it tastes MUCH teeter in Italy. Howard has bean and faro soup, a very traditional dish of the region. For the main course I have veal stew with olives and tomatoes and Howard has local sausages and white beans. Everything was delicious! There is absolutely no room for dessert but we do enjoy Italian espresso–little teeny, super flavorful cups of delicious coffee.
Nadia has texted us a few times that all is well. I REALLY appreciate that even though I need to turn on the cell data and roaming on my iPhone to receive the text. (Not sure how much that costs us.) Nadia seems completely in control and is ever vigilant for escapes. When we get back she argues that we are paying her too much. Believe me our piece of mind is worth a lot and she inspires great confidence in her abilities to take care of our doggies.
We do stop at the grocery store before we mount our accent but it is closed. Whatever we have at home will be our sustenance until we leave!