After another great breakfast we meet Marcelo–with a kiss, of course (from both of us). I feel like a “porteña” (the people of Buenos Aries are called porteños, people of the port.) The weather is beautiful. We take the bus to our first tour stop: the Malvinas War Memorial. We call the disputed territory the Falkland Islands but whatever you call it the people of Argentina have not forgotten the war. According to Marcelo, the dictatorship started the war hoping to unite the people and the regime in the efforts to remove the British from the islands. Losing the war ironically eventually ended the dictatorship. But the people do not forget the war and its dead. In fact recently there has been renewed calls for the British to give up the islands to Argentina. Marcelo gave us a little history lesson on the Perons–you know the “Don’t cry for me Argentina” Perons. Eva Peron was loved by the common people but died from cancer at age 33. Her body was embalmed and put on display. When her husband, Juan, was overthrown in a coup her body was kidnapped by the new regime and was lost for 16 years. When her body was found, Juan and his third wife, a stripper, installed the body in their dining room. (She was later buried in a grand mausoleum in the Recoleta Cemetery.) Juan made sure that his new stripper wife was installed as Vice President so that when his term was up he could control the presidency through her. But he died and she became an unprepared president. She lost her position in the coup that would go on to terrorize Argentina. Next we hop on the bus to a really cute, kind of touristy neighborhood of BA called La Boca. The pedestrian-friendly streets are lined with colorful houses and on nearly every corner we enjoy a tango dance demonstration. The next stop is the Puerto Madero area, the latest architectural area of BA. Located on the riverbank it includes the old locks for the ship transport and an impressive new foot-bridge, the Punta de la Mujer (the Bridge of the Woman). A new port was built for BA in 1926 leaving the Madero docks abandoned. In the 1990s there was a redevelopment effort and now the area is filled with beautiful apartments, fine dining and lovely views. Our walking tour later includes the mansion area where many of the old, grand residences have been converted to embassies or hotels. We visit the Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar, one of only two Spanish-style buildings in BA (remember the country wanted to forget all things Spanish). There are 6 altars including one made completely of silver. The relics (bone remains of saints) are ubiquitous and disturbing. Next to the church is the Recoleta Cemetery filled with mausoleums. These opulent mausoleums were not built for the eternal rest of its occupants–they were built to exhibit the families’ wealth! The most massive mausoleums could house up to 50 family members. The largest building has incredible, huge vases made from the local, beautiful pink stone called Rhodochrosite. The most dramatic mausoleum story has to do with a young woman buried alive. As a result of this tragedy Buenos Aires enacted a law that no one could be buried until a certain number of days had passed after death. We enjoy a delicious lunch with Marcelo at an Italian restaurant. Marcelo choses a wonderful red wine from the San Juan region of Argentina. I choose beef medallions with radiccio, arulula and cheese. Howard has osso bucco. Marcelo has a very meager dish in spite of our urging to enjoy himself! What a day! We think Marcelo is a great tour guide and new-found friend. We are stuffed from our huge lunch. Our dinner is Pisco Sours in the homey basement area of our hotel.